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Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity
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Catalogue Record 18668
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Catalogue Information
Catalogue Record 18668
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ISBN
9463721738 (hardcover)
9789463721738 (hardcover)
Author
Hedayat Munroe, Nazanin
Title
Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / Nazanin Hedayat Munroe
Publisher
Amsterdam : Amsterdam University Press, 2023
Physical desc.
248 pages ; illustrations (chiefly colour) ; 25 cm.
Series
Visual and material culture, 1300-1700
41
Note
CB illustration: p. 100, fig. 3.6 (Per 163.120).
Bibliography etc.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Contents
Introduction: Material culture and mysticism in the Persianate world -- Material culture and mysticism -- The Persianate world -- Part 1. Silks, signatures and self-fashioning -- Khamsa narrative silks in scholarship -- The famous Naqshband: unrivalled in the art of textile design -- Craftsmen and consumers -- Self-fashioning in the early modern Persianate world -- Dressed as king, lover and beloved: Khusrau and Shirin -- Lovers from Nizami's Khamsa -- The romantic tragedy of Nizami's 'Khusrau and Shirin' -- Khusrau and Shirin in paintings and Safavid silks -- The gaze and the body: states of dress and undress -- Weaving stories, weaving self: Layla and Majnun as Sufi icons -- The mystical love story of Nizami's 'Layla and Majnun' -- Layla and Majnun in poetry, paintings and silk designs -- The Khamsa of Amir Khusrau -- Text and textile in Sufi poetry -- Part 2. The divine cloak of majesty: material culture in Sufi practice -- Garments as gifts of blessing, piety and power -- Chivalry, spirituality and materiality in Sufism -- Khirqa: the cloak of spiritual poverty -- Khamsa silk as khirqa? figural silks in Islamic literary sources -- Enrobed: Khil'at in the early modern age -- Mughal dress and spirituality: the age of Sufi kings -- Silk, Sufism and self-image at the Mughal court -- Figural silks in diplomacy: rare textiles of novel design -- Silk as commodity in Safavid Iran -- Figural silk as Safavid identity: Sherley and his rivals -- Figural silk as diplomatic gifts -- Safavid and Mughal gift giving in historical accounts -- Figural silks at the Mughal court -- Conclusion. Reattribution of the Khamsa silks based on paintings and poetry -- Textile designs and designers -- Sufi kings in Mughal India and Safavid Iran -- Khusrau and Shirin: love and kingship -- Layla and Majnun: separation and union -- Deviations from the Khamsa characters -- Concluding thoughts -- Appendix A: List of Khamsa silks -- Appendix B: Summary of 'Shirin and Khusrau' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Appendix C: Summary of 'Majnun and Layla' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Glossary of textile terms -- Glossary of Persian and Arabic terms.
Subject
Chester Beatty Library -- Manuscript -- Per 163
Silk, Safavid
Textile fabrics -- Iran -- 16th century
Textile fabrics -- India -- 17th century
Textile crafts -- Iran
Clothing and dress in art
Women sufis
Sufi poetry, Persian
Love poetry, Persian
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10014797
746.0955 HED
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